Showing posts with label project. Show all posts
Showing posts with label project. Show all posts

Sunday, October 15, 2017

A Leather Table Carpet (inspiration and examples)

I was a bit wrong, and a bit right. When the book came in, I located the relevant section, only to find I'd mis-remembered the story of the burned leather carpet.  The story is in the The Connoisseur's Complete Period Guides (to the Houses, Decoration, Furnishings and Chattels of the Classic Periods), page 239
Leather Hangings
Conspicuous among the furnishings of the richer homes in Tudor times were the so-called 'Spanish leather' hangings. Although originating in Spain, perhaps as early in the eleventh century, this type of decorative leather, varying in detail, was eventually made in all the principal European countries. England apparently excelled in the making of gilded, embossed and painted panels for mural decorations,  (Fourgeroux de Bondaroy in a report to the Academy of France, Descriptions des Arts et Metiers, 1762) but there is no record or any organized craft of leather gilders. It therefore appears probable that only a handful of craftsmen were concerned with this somewhat exotic product; and those not much before the early years of the seventeenth century. Earlier hangings must therefore have been imported, probably chiefly from France and the Low Countries. Leather hangings were not purely decorative: they were esteemed because they were not affected by damp or insects, could be cleaned by sponging and retained their brilliance indefinitely. An article in the Illustrated London News for 11 October, 1851, states: 'About 1531 or 1532, Henry VIII built a manor-house near Eastham Church in Essex, with a high square tower, that during her sort of year or probation, Anne Boleyn might enjoy the prospect of the Royal Park at Greenwich. This tower had hangings of the most gorgeous gold leather, which remaining until fifty years since, when the house coming into the hands of a proprietor with no especial love for the memory of the Bluff Harry, nor the sad hauntings of the fate of Anne Boleyn, nor the old art and workmanship of leather decoration, but a clear perception that in so many yards of gilt leather there must be some weight of real gold, had the tapestries [sic] torn down, sent to the goldsmith's furnace, ad some £60 gathered from the ashes.' Whilst real gold-leaf was undoubtedly used on occasion, usually the effect was produced by covering the leather with silver or tin-foil and then applying successive layers of yellow varnish. The decline of leather hangings seems to have resulted in part from changing fashions, and in part form the introduction of the cheaper embossed paper embossed paper wall-coverings, to the earliest of which the leather gilders turned their hands.

I cannot verify the Illustrated London News story, there are no local archives, and their online archives are behind a paywall.  The Connoisseur Guide was a periodical before it was collected into book form, the copyright years are 1956, 1957, 1958, with "First published as one complete volume 1968"

There is however, very little in the way of surviving exemplars, later in the same section (p. 240) is a reference to another one that serves as the inspiration
from Ham House, Richmond, Surrey
Plate 84(a) from The Connoisseur's Complete Period
Guides (Tudor Section) - "
The only known example of a
leather 'carpet', probably a bed cover, forming part of the
seventeenth-century furnishings of the Queen's Room, Ham
House (discarded in the eighteenth century).  Of shaved
hide, silvered, embossed and painted, the background in
opaque light grey, flowers and foliage in transparent glazes
through which the silver still gleams.  This particular example
is probably of the mid-seventeenth century, Dutch, but leather
carpets are mentioned as early as 1423.
Ham House, Richmond, Surrey"
... Leather 'carpets', that is to say overs for furniture such as beds and tables, are mentioned as early as 1423 in an inventory of the wardrobe of Henry VI, being made of Spanish leather. But no example was known to have survived until one was found in the attics of Ham House, Richmond, dating from the Restoration period. ... The technique employed for ornamentation is interesting and unusual. Natural (undyed) sheepskin was placed over patterns cut in relief on wooden blocks, and subjected to a rubbing, probably with a wood or bone 'slicker'. This bruised the surface of the leather where there was contact with the raised design below, leaving charming patterns in brown on the biscuit-coloured leather. Gilt leather piping and tassels enhanced the effect.

Ham House Marble Dining Room Hanging
from the Marble Dining Room, Ham House, Surrey
Having found an examplar, I went looking to see if it had survived into the modern day.  It had.  Ham House is now part of the National Trust, and there are color pictures, though unfortunately, not as detailed as I like.  The ornamentation does say "Jacobean" to me, more than Tudor/Elizabethan.  According to this link, leather hangings were used in dining rooms because they did not retain smells. 

I now had a search term, "Leather Hangings" dropped into assorted search engines got me a link to the Cooper Hewett museum, and a leather wallcovering from circa 1750, also Dutch.  Looking for other items classified the same way, the Cooper Hewett has 16 examples of "leather, stamped, painted, silvered" dated from 1680 through 1750.

Additional links:

Description of repairing/replacing A Leather Wall Covering at Cheverny, a seventeenth century french chateau
From the V&A, a leather panel from between 1500 and 1600 (4" by about 6") the museum has more examples, but this is one of the oldest

From the Cooper Hewett Museum

Thursday, October 12, 2017

A Leather Table Carpet (gathering materials)

Before Research, gathering materials.


There is something intriguing about falling down a rabbit hole.  This one has two sources, a copy of "The Connoisseur's Complete Period Guides to the Houses, Decoration, Furnishing and Chattels of the Classic Periods" and a friend with a club membership for Tandy Leather that he would allow me to make use of.

I bought a deer hide and some leather-friendly paint, to see if it's possible to make something out of it.  Not gloves (though the leather is butter soft and almost hole free.

Many years ago I bought a book, a compilation of the styles in furnishings in the years between 1500 and 1860 reading in the section about the Tudor (1500-1603) and Stuart (1603-1714) I read about a leather tablecloth/covering/carpet that someone of a later age threw on a fire for the gilding on it, the person who did it got, if I recall correctly, 5 pounds gold (I don't know if it was the monetary unit or the weight).  Feel free to creeble, bemoan, or curse the destruction of something unique, I'll wait.

The Connoisseur's Complete Period Guides to the Houses, Decoration, Furnishing and Chattels of the Classic Periods
Not the copy I bought,
(mine has no dust jacket)
By the way, in the early 19th century, people used to take medieval ecclesiastical vestments and pick the gold embroidery off of it, because it was just old stuff, and hey, gold!

I've not found any other reference to leather table-coverings in the Tudor era or earlier, and I've misplaced the book, so before I wanted to start making anything, I went hunting on Amazon.  The book cost less than the shipping.  Not bad considering the copy I had many-many years ago was more.  A lot more.


Monday, May 23, 2016

A Lined Coat for Pennsic - to dye for


I think the linen I selected may be a light cotton, but the wool is thick enough to make up for it, and to make it warm.

I spent Saturday tea dying the linen and hanging it out to dry in the back yard.  Then the skies opened up and it hung there all night, possibly losing all the effort I'd put into dying it.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Before dying
After dying
As I said I decided against using the fabric I bought from World of Isabella because I am reluctant to ruin good fabric and went looking in my stash.  I found the fabric on the left, which is an uneven light green (the warp is white, the weft a celery color.)  You cannot see the unevenness in the comparison shot, but it's there.  It's 6 yards of 45" wide cloth.  The fabric on the right is the original planned cloth.

The recipe I found online (here) said 1 quart of water per yard of fabric, and 8 tea bags per quart of fabric, but I upped the water and tea to enough for 8 yards of fabric, in hopes of getting a better color.

tea bags, hanging out
So, 64 bags of tea, and to keep from having to fish out the tea bags after steeping and possibly breaking some I left them attached to the packet they came in, and stapled a loop to hang off a spoon.  I left the tea steeping for about a hour, then took it out and squeezed the liquid out, doused the fabric so it was wet, put it in the dye bath and walked away for about 4 hours.  Well, mostly, came back in from time to time to stir the fabric in the pot.  It did stay in the dye bath for that long.

Because the fabric had a tendency to puff up, I weighted it down with a plate (I picked up the trick keeping orange peel submerged for candying)

The instructions say to rinse it until the water runs clear, then to set the fabric with a diluted vinegar/water mix.  I did that too, then took it out to the back yard and hung it up, draping it over a stick so the fabric wouldn't drag on the ground.

I congratulated myself on having arranged for the fabric to dry out in the open so it would smell better (less like salad dressing, more like sunlight).  Then I heard something rumble, thunder, and looked out the door.  Yup, rain.  All night.

Sunday morning I want out and collected the fabric, decided it had too many flower petals and tree stuff on it to throw directly into the dryer and ran it through a spin and rinse in the washing machine.  Just to be a completist, I added the wool fabric I planned on using for the lining.  It is thick and fluffy, and drying them both left a half inch of fluff on the dryer filter.  It's also a beige/brown color.

The dying turned the fabric from a pale, uneven green to a sort of light khaki, which is an acceptable shade of "will blend with Pennsic Mud" for my tastes.

Final shot is of the "value added" cat shot, with the shell fabric lying over the wool.  I had to chase him off the fabric about three times on Sunday while I was trying to work.  He likes fluffy/warm things.

Saturday, May 21, 2016

A Lined Coat for Pennsic - Planning

I have been freezing at Pennsic since I first attended, and over the years, have bought wool fabric while there to act as impromptu cloaks (and even bought the occaisional cloak from merchants) and blankets. I determined that it was time to make or purchase a coat to wear when it gets too cold for comfort.

I originally wanted to make a Viking caftan (directions at Simple Viking Garb for Men and Simple Viking Garb for Women, with some illustrations at this site and this one.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1996
1996.78.1
Didn't get around to it, and got distracted by this at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the attendant article by Nobuko Kajitani ("A Man's Caftan and Leggings from the North Caucasus of the Eighth to Tenth Century: A Conservator's Report": Metropolitan Museum Journal, v. 36 (2001)) at this site. The original is linen lined with fur (I presume flatlined, given the article). It included an exploded view of the caftan, which I was able to expand out to make a mock up. It felt comfy.

Compromises:

The original is:
linen
trimmed with narrow bits of silk brocade
lined in the body and possibly the sleeves with fur.

My copy will be (I hope)
Linen I can get (stash!), though I bought some from World of Isabella and put aside for reasons.
brocade, at least partly silk I can get (again, stash)
fur in the quantities needed I cannot. I compromise here with a wool cloth from my stash, it is soft, quite warm, and I have a quantity of it suitable for making a mid-calf length caftan.


Because this is intended for Pennsic wear, I put aside the fabric from World of Isabella because I wanted to dye the linen to a color that wouldn't show Pennsic Mud Stains that much (tea dying), and fabric from stash probably cost $2-3 a yard, not over $10. I think the wool I intend to use was a similar price, I've had it long enough.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

I was recently offered a free Dorset fleece from a woman who saw me carding some shetland wool (good timing, I'd almost run out of fleece). She owns some sheep of that breed, and the alternative to giving the fleece away is throwing it out, or giving it to someone to use for insulation. She'd like to think it's being used productively, I think. Naturally, I accept.

All that is left of the Shetland
I have enjoyed taking the Shetland from a bag full of “stuff off the sheep, complete with pre- and post-sheep vegetable matter” to “so much fluffy stuff!!!” It has gone up in volume, but I have enjoyed every bit, since it came home from Rhinebeck.

Having agreed and given her my email address, I returned to playing with cards, shetland, and talking with the public about how much effort went into making the clothes on their back (cue the 1:10 ratio lecture going from the cloth to the sheep) in the pre-Industrial Age, and how an important portion of yearly wages could be the clothes on your back.

Here begins a month long story that went eventually to low farce. It took her a couple of weeks to locate the fleece. Then she had to put them in her truck. The email address I'd given her is not one I check as often as I should. We exchanged phone numbers, but I didn't notice when she called. Thank heavens for voicemail.

Thursday I actually left work on time, but she had headed home early because of bad weather. We talked, and I gave her my address with the assurance that if the weather was good, she could leave the fleece on the porch, and my husband could bring in. I went to work as normal, got out at “normal for me” getting home to no fleece on the porch, and none in the house (other than what is already there). It looked like she hadn't dropped it off on her way to South Jersey as I had thought she would, based on the phone call. Another missed connection, and I chalked it up to such, checking email for a chunk of the evening.

Then the phone rang. I looked down, recognized the number and tried to pick up before it went to voicemail. I didn't, but went down to turn on the outside light and stick my head out. A strange truck was outside. It turns out she had found the road, but the house numbers weren't visible. It turns out she's a biologist, which at least explains why her workday was cut short by bad weather.

full bag in back
She explained that the fleece was in the garbage bags in the back of her truck and went to get them.

She wasn't kidding about the garbage bags. One, full to almost to overflowing, the second half full. I thanked her profusely, and she headed for home after getting directions back to the main highway. I took my loot and put it away.

It's currently on the enclosed porch, subject to being stored in the garage to freeze any kind of critters that might have hitched a ride
This morning I started researching Dorset sheep and came to the following conclusions:

  1. Dorset sheep produce about 5-7 lbs of wool a year. This has got to be the wool off of more than one sheep. I think this has got to be at least the product of at least 5-10 sheep. It's a very light gray/just off white color, but that might be because it hasn't been washed yet.  Full bag seems to have 15-20 lbs, not full bag seems to have about 10 lbs in it
  2. I should wash “the stuff off the sheep” in 1-2 lb lots. In a sifting kitty litter pan. This is more than one lot of sheep stuff, and I have to scrub down the pan before I use it. A lot.   Either that, or I need to go looking for a local wool processing mill.  (Done.  I cannot afford that, even if I drive the stuff to the mill myself.)
  3. It feels very nice, and smells like sheep. I'm looking forward to processing it.
  4. The fluffy mass of Shetland
    I need to check what I did and what I used when I washed the Shetland fleece.  (Done, it's over on Livejournal, here and there.  There are also pictures.)
  5. I need to spread out the Shetland and take pictures of it. The last time I tied, the battery on the phone was almost dead.  (Accomplished, see right)
  6. I need to buy more shampoo/ivory soap/dawn dish soap. I'm sure I don't have enough.
  7. I'm not jealous of anyone who got to go or plans to go to Rhinebeck.  I have enough fiber to keep me busy for the next couple of years.
Anyone want some smelly sheep stuff?

A Project Holder (part 1 through 4)

follow up to this posting with pictures of the process this time, and a prototype.

The first attempt,  I think I got ... 4 rows done
I have gotten tired of losing the needles out of a particular sock project (JM Jones socks ... I am fighting cast on #4 until I have gotten something to hold it all together.  I keep grabbing one needle to pull it out of the bag, and it's always a "live needle".

With fine wool and really small needles, pulling the needle out means "rip it out and start again you idiot."  After the last time, (in July/August) I put it aside until I had something to protect it.  I didn't need the frustration.

I knew what I wanted, something like what a friend had to hold double pointed knitting needles.  She used cigar tubes, but when a camp-mate got me one, it was about ... 4" too short to hold the needles.  I did try cutting the slot, but the plastic was too flimsy and the tube, meant to hold a cigarillo, was laughably too small to hold even the size 1 needles I was using.

Cue a run to Home Depot, and the purchase of a 2' length of 3/4" PVC pipe.  It might not be the most graceful of material, but I knew it would be sturdy enough.

I cut it to 8" lengths, after checking that it would be longer than the needles I have, and so I'd have 3 chances to get it right.  I couldn't get much longer than that, as my saw/miter setup won't cut anything much wider than that.  If I need to make anything 12" long, I'm horked, or need to figure out something else.

Making the first cut
Next up, 2 cuts down the length of the pipe (this was the reason for the 8" length.  After thinking about it for a while, I came up with some bracing to hold the pipe for the first cut.  It is sturdy pipe, which n this instance meant for a long time cutting.  It also meant for some careful cutting as I reached the end of the cut, I didn't want to cut the pipe entirely in half, I wanted a slot.
Making the second cut.

Once the first cut was made, I re-jiggered the bracing and put a spare saw blade into the cut, so I could hold it steady while I made the second cut.  This was also a lengthy cut, made longer by the need to not have the cuts turn into spirals, or to jump all over the pipe.

I did get the pipe cut, and went in search at the local hardware store for something like caps to hold the ends in, and some kind of slider so that the project won't fall out once I've got it in.

Testing the concept
a finer project is also held securely
A 3/4" gasket served the second purpose, but I couldn't find caps that fit on the outside of the pipe, only inside.  I only bought one gasket, so I made use of a hair tie for the second, and tested the concept that the gasket or some kind of rubber band could hold a project in place.  The first  test was with a very sturdy project (my third attempt at colorwork, a pair of socks for a co-worker's 9 year old daughter.)  I want to look into using some kind of slide along the length of the holder, but I was still at the "proof of concept" stage.

Tips are still vulnerable.  Need caps
I don't need the holder for this type of project so much.  When a needle comes out of this, the stitches are sturdy enough to pick back up with the needle.  I'm sorry to say that I've had to test that far too often.

It also held a finer project, but I still needed to get caps to hold the non-working needle in.  Although the craft stores would be happy to sell me as many sets of needles as I could afford, I'd rather not have to buy them.  I did find caps that would fit inside the pipe.

I finished the other two sections of pipe, and this time went to Home Depot, which did have pvc caps to fit over the outside of the ends of the pipe, although they don't stay on.  Either need to use tape to increase the size of the pipe just a little, or pvc glue/cement to hold it on.  Will try the tape first.

Saturday, August 30, 2014

A project holder (part 0)

The backstory:

I have a knitting project (a rather complex sock in almost laceweight yarn with size 1 needles) that I've cast on 4 times, and am about to start for a 5th time.

The first time, I didn't have the number of stitches correct, so when I began the pattern, it didn't work, so I tore it out.  Luckily, this happened at row 5, so no big deal.

The second time, a needle came out about ... 2 rows into the pattern, and even if I could get the needle back in , the markers had gone "poof" so I couldn't tell where they went.  Tear it out and cast on again.

Third time, I reached into the bag I was keeping my active projects in, grabbed one to show off, and out came one of the active needles, about ... 5 rows into the pattern.  This time I cut off the yarn, because it was getting a bit worn, and I cast on again.

Then I went camping, and wanted to show a friend what I'd gotten done ... you see where this is going.  This time the needle stayed in the bag.

Something had to be done, the yarn is too fine to hold the needles in, or the steel was too slippery to stay in place.  I needed a holder of some kind.

Something like this, a tube to hold the needles secure and still allow the knitted fabric to hang so I could tell where I was in the project, or to show it off (which I probably shouldn't do given what's happened in the past.  (This one looks good to, but probably not as versatile.  A friend shows me a needle holder she'd made out of a cigar tube , and I determined to make something like the first link or the cigar holder.

So I got my hands on a cigar tube ... all of 5 inches long and about a half inch in diameter.  Also about as fragile as a politician's promise.   I needed something sturdier, and a bit larger.  To the hardware store and/or Home Depot, because that's where I pick up sewing notions, doesn't everyone?