Saturday, May 21, 2016

A Lined Coat for Pennsic - Planning

I have been freezing at Pennsic since I first attended, and over the years, have bought wool fabric while there to act as impromptu cloaks (and even bought the occaisional cloak from merchants) and blankets. I determined that it was time to make or purchase a coat to wear when it gets too cold for comfort.

I originally wanted to make a Viking caftan (directions at Simple Viking Garb for Men and Simple Viking Garb for Women, with some illustrations at this site and this one.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1996
1996.78.1
Didn't get around to it, and got distracted by this at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the attendant article by Nobuko Kajitani ("A Man's Caftan and Leggings from the North Caucasus of the Eighth to Tenth Century: A Conservator's Report": Metropolitan Museum Journal, v. 36 (2001)) at this site. The original is linen lined with fur (I presume flatlined, given the article). It included an exploded view of the caftan, which I was able to expand out to make a mock up. It felt comfy.

Compromises:

The original is:
linen
trimmed with narrow bits of silk brocade
lined in the body and possibly the sleeves with fur.

My copy will be (I hope)
Linen I can get (stash!), though I bought some from World of Isabella and put aside for reasons.
brocade, at least partly silk I can get (again, stash)
fur in the quantities needed I cannot. I compromise here with a wool cloth from my stash, it is soft, quite warm, and I have a quantity of it suitable for making a mid-calf length caftan.


Because this is intended for Pennsic wear, I put aside the fabric from World of Isabella because I wanted to dye the linen to a color that wouldn't show Pennsic Mud Stains that much (tea dying), and fabric from stash probably cost $2-3 a yard, not over $10. I think the wool I intend to use was a similar price, I've had it long enough.

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